CHANEL PARIS IN ROME

CHANEL PARIS IN ROME

Chanel’s Paris-Rome Métier d’Arts collection
The latest of Karl Lagerfeld’s masterful spectacles, the entire set was transformed into a replica of a nostalgic Parisian street-complete with a boulangerie, le métro station, and a cinema-all in Chanel’s signature black and white. A screening of Karl’s much-anticipated fictional biopic “Chanel Once and Forever” kicked off the event, before 88 new looks hit the runway. Karl and a troupe a newspaper boys closed the show as the set’s street came alive to signal the start of the collection’s after-hours soirée.

more:KARL LAGERFELD'S INTERVIEW

Fendi Pre-Fall 2016

Karl Lagerfeld presents Fendi Pre-Fall 2016- There is the retro futuristic touch- Fashion colection, and it is seen through geometrics, furs, colorblocking and other high visual garments.
Chunky slippers in leather, sheepskin and fur worn with slouchy socks underscored the loungy boudoir feeling of the clothes, including a velvet pajama-like tuxedo and a roomy, fuchsia and brown wool jacquard robe coat cinched with a lavish mink belt. Another delightfully rich graphic piece was a mannish intarsia coat crafted from mink — shaved and long haired — with astrakhan lapels. To counter the lush masculinity of the oversize shapes, there were girly grandma moments in a vintage-y striped fur coat and cloche festooned with a colorful, cartoony fur flower and a silk jacquard dress enriched with organza floral appliqués and jewel embroidery.
more: Fendi Pre Fall

JASON WU PRE FALL 2016

“Luxury people don’t want merchandise,” said Jason Wu at a recent preview of his latest Pre-Fall collection. “Beautiful clothes that you can have for a long time,” he added. So instead of treating Pre-Fall 2016 as a lesser-than collection, he imbued it with a genuine fashion message inspired by - the rich colours of Le Corbusier paintings and furniture, particularly the modernist’s pony-haired sling chair. “My entire house is grey flannel and Mid-Century modern, so in that way it’s very me,” explained the fashion designer.The fashion collection -Jason Wu Pre Fall 2016, with its lingerie slips dotted with 3-D florals and buttery leather dresses, was indeed very “him” — modern clothes for women who like to dress. But perhaps he’s loosening up a bit. The collection’s star was a pair of glen-plaid patchwork trousers with a zipper lining the seam from knee to ankle. Undo that zipper and the already wide leg became downright billowy, worn equally well with a matching blazer or a jacquard-knit cashmere sweater, topped off with a string of pearls. A patchwork fit-and-flare dress was seamed with zippers for the same effect: one could wear it quite close to the body, or a little further away.

“Once and Forever”, film by Karl Lagerfeld starring Kristen Stewart & Geraldine Chaplin

Karl Lagerfeld's new film that goes behind the scenes of a biopic on Gabrielle Chanel, starring Kristen Stewart, Geraldine Chaplin, Jérémie Elkaïm, François Marthouret, Amanda Harlech, Jamie Bochert, Jake Davies, Baptiste Giabiconi and Laura Brown.
The film premiered at Cinecittà, Rome on December 1st before the presentation of the Paris-Rome 2015/16 Métiers d'Art collection.


  more:Watch the interview with Kristen Stewart and Geraldine Chaplin at https://youtu.be/oGkHaZKcEho

Moschino Creates Barbie Doll and Capsule Collection

 Moschino Barbie Collection

“I wanted to bring all of the Moschino elements to Barbie, as I had done the reverse by bringing all of the Barbie elements to Moschino for the spring 2015 collection,” said Scott.

“The thing I love most about Barbie is that she is the ultimate muse, she’s worn every style and design imaginable and at the same time she’s had every possible profession you can dream of.”

Moschino creative director Jeremy Scott dressed the doll in a slogan T-shirt, mesh knitwear, a quilted faux leather bomber jacket and a pencil skirt. He gave the legendary Mattel doll an abundance of accessories to finish her look: earrings, sunglasses, a motorcycle bag, backpack, a gold chain belt, necklaces, faux leather cap, mini quilted cross body bag and shopping bag.

The eight-piece capsule collection will include adult-size versions of the Barbie’s wardrobe and two Moschino Barbie T-shirts. The price range for the line is $225 for a T-shirt to $1,595 for a leather shoulder bag. The Moschino Barbie doll is priced at 100 pounds, or $150, available on Net-a-porter.com.

How young is too young for girls to work as models?

Sofia Mechetner(14 years old) is opening the Paris fashion show of one of the world's most famous labels, Dior.

"I feel ready and I am not alone, I am being looked after, closely. They are treating me really nicely here. Everything I ask for is being taken care of, they help me. So the fact that I am 14 years old is not really an issue," she said.

It's not an issue for her manager, Rotem Gur, either.

"Before she started with Dior she was cleaning houses with her mother so if she is not too young to clean houses, I don't think she is too young to walk on a show," said Gur.

But others are not so sure:
“All of the designers that are contracted to London Fashion Week, the models must be 16 or over.  We think that's really important," said Caroline Rush.
Carlo Capasa of Italy’s National Chamber of Fashion said Italian models must also be no younger than 16,

"Yes, there are rules. In Italy we don't use models that are under 16. (They are) too young," said Capasa.

Models themselves have their own take on how young is too young.

"I think you should start modeling at 18. I mean, that is the age I started up,” said model Neelam Gill.

"You do get scrutinized, you do get disappointment and that's very hard to take when you are 14 or 16. Eighteen, you are a little bit more experienced but even at 18 ... I was probably ready by 21, 22," said David Gandy, a male model.

But Karl Lagerfeld, of the Chanel Fashion House, said the public wants to see young models.

"They can identify even if it's not the same age group. That's the girls of the moment, fashion is about the moment. I'm an opportunist, a fashion opportunist, but there's nothing bad about that because that's our business," said Lagerfeld.

A host of bridal gown styles star in new shows on Broadway, television and movies

Kristin Chenoweth as Lily Garland in “On the Twentieth Century”

Designer: William Ivey Long

The look: Vintage glamour in curve-kissing crepe-backed satin in arctic white with a dramatic plunging neckline, thin straps and a train.

Dress drama: “Kristin wears 4 1/2-inch heels for the wedding, her highest of the show,” says Long. Her art-deco tiara is studded with tiny diamonds and pearls.

The bride says: “I love the dress that William Ivey Long designed for the end of the show, which gets all of about 3 minutes of stage time,” says Chenoweth, “which is a shame, because it is truly a couture gown. I could wear this dress in any color on the red carpet.

“It skims the body perfectly, it has a deep back and it’s a 1930’s feel,” she adds. “The white sheer gloves that go all the way up past my elbow were made by the same place that makes all of the Queen’s gloves. And there is the traditional, humongous veil which is about as big as me.

“Jennifer Garner was at the show the other night, and she was like ‘I want that dress’ — for me, that says it all.”

Stylist says: “Nothing is more timeless — and yes, sexy — like a white silk sheath,” says Amanda Elser, fashion and beauty editor at The Knot wedding website. “And ever since Amal (Clooney) wore white gloves on the red carpet, we have a hunch they’ll be making a bridal comeback.”

more: New York Daily News

Jean-Paul Gaultier exhibit in Paris showcases designer's avant-garde creations, inspirations

Jean-Paul Gaultier-"I tried to display them by theme, themes that are important to me like working on skin, tattoos, piercing etc. androgenicity, the strong woman, the sexy woman as well, corsets, ethnicities, different ethnicities. With all this I tried to put them together," he said.

Paris' first ever exhibition devoted to fashion's "enfant terrible" Jean-Paul Gaultier opens its doors on Wednesday, showcasing the French couturier's avant-garde creations as well as his childhood inspirations.

The Grand Palais Museum will display more than 300 pieces, made up of haute couture and ready-to-wear designs from between 1976 and the present day, accompanied by videos and pictures.

"The Fashion World of Jean-Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk", which runs to Aug. 3, also has mannequins with animated faces winking at passers-by.

Gaultier, who designed the corset and cone bra that Madonna wore for her 1990 world tour, said the exhibition was not a retrospective but a creation in itself.

Another particular aspect of this production are the personal elements of Gaultier's childhood and adolescence that represent the roots of his inspirations and innovations.

During a news conference held on Monday (March 30), the eclectic designer insisted upon the strong bond he had with his grandmother and how she often played a role in his creativity.

"I was lucky that my grandmother was different, that she had black feathers, an extraordinary corset and also she gave beauty advice to her clients. Meaning, I was there and I witnessed this, I was probably 9 or 10 years old and I would draw them before and after, in the way that they appeared to me, which used to really amuse them. And I would also hear my grandmother saying to them, you have to make nice little dishes for your husbands and maybe you can also change your clothes, style your hair differently, make a small change. So little by little, without realizing it, I grasped the importance of clothing," he said.

Gaultier's fashion house opened in the early 1980s but announced last year in September that it will no longer produce men's and women's ready-to-wear.

The brand, owned by Spanish perfumer Puig, will now on focus on haute couture, perfume, and collaborations within the industry.

"Now it has changed [the world of fashion], there are enormous groups and stuff, it's the power of power, much more of that, a lot of marketing, many more guidelines to follow which I was not used to. I was extremely lucky to be free in what I was doing and set my own limits, my own boundaries. Nowadays if one must go through filter after filter, well then I am too old for that," Gaultier said.

As well as some of his most emblematic artistic collaborations with filmmakers, dancers, models and international pop stars, numerous objects and archival documents are also on display to the public for the first time. An array of sketches, stage costumes, footage from films, fashion shows and concerts, video clips, dance performances and TV shows retrace the diversity of his career.

The exhibition first began in 2011 at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts under the direction of Nathalie Bondil and Thierry-Maxime Loriot.

Since then, the exhibition has gone around the world, opening its doors in nine different cities including Dallas, Madrid, Rotterdam and Melbourne.

The show at the Grand Palais is the tenth stop of the exhibit with installations specially designed for Paris as a reminder of the impact the "enfant terrible," as Gaultier was called by the press, has had in the fashion world.

The curator of the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, Thierry-Maxime Loriot, said how important it was for this exhibition to reflect the return of the designer to his roots.

"Paris is the tenth venue of this incredible tour after a million and a half visitors. So for Paris it was important that Mr. Gaultier felt at home, it's like the return of the "enfant terrible" in Paris," he said.

Apart from his technical virtuosity based on his great skill in tailoring, his wide imagination and historic partnerships with other artists, Gaultier offers an open-minded vision of society—a crazy, impertinent world in which people are free to be themselves. There is something truly generous in Gaultier's world and a powerful social message delivered in a light, witty way, Loriot said.

"It's really important the strong social message in this exhibition. So you can see it through the exhibition with the mannequins, that speak, that reflect his universe but also the different skin tones and different body shapes throughout the exhibition," he added.

As the visitor walks through the eight different themes of the designer's universe, the animated faces of the mannequins follow him with their eyes, sometimes even winking at him.

Source:Reuters

Lauren Bacall’s Eclectic Treasures Auctioned Off

Lee Roy Reams, an actor who appeared with Lauren Bacall in the 1970 Broadway musical “Applause,” was on the phone Thursday, exulting at his winning bid, for $2,000, on two deer antlers mounted on a carved wooden head from the auction of her collection at Bonhams New York earlier in the week.

“I lusted after them and coveted them for many years,” said Mr. Reams, who played Duane, the hairstylist for Ms. Bacall’s character, and remembered a friendship that progressed from getting Nathan’s hot dogs with her in the limo ride home from the theater, to spaghetti casseroles in her dining room at the Dakota apartments, to Chinese food on her bed. “Now I have them.”

Mr. Reams’s purchase, along with that of three other lots (he tried for a dozen), was one of the more personal in the four sessions held over two days, the afternoon sessions stretching into night.

Bids flew in over the telephone and from cyberspace from 34 countries, as well as by raising a paddle bearing Ms. Bacall’s likeness in a subterranean room in the auction headquarters on Madison Avenue, warm with artificial light.

Source:The New York Times

Obsessed With Shoes

Recent fashion weeks in Tokyo, Prague and Lisbon inspired sartorial creativity from head to toe. We trained our lenses on some of the more amusing boot and shoe choices worn by showgoers and city residents. From platform mary janes in cartoon-bright colors to fetish-inspired styles without heels that require a balancing act, footwear often stole the show. There were arty wooden wedges, neon-bright sneakers, eclectic booties and embellishments galore: fuzzy animal faces, chains, faux fruit, floral embroidery and even folded $100 bills. An array of quirky socks and hosiery proved equally captivating.

more:WWD

MIU MIU Fall/Winter 2015 Womenswear Show

Fall/Winter 2015 Womenswear Show Video
“Ciao, I’m Miuccia, nice to meet you,” Miuccia Prada said to Marine Vacth as the French actress made her way through the crowd at the opening of Miu Miu’s new Herzog & De Meuron-designed flagship store in Tokyo’s Aoyama district. Prada and her husband, the company’s chief executive officer Patrizio Bertelli, feted the store Thursday evening along with a roster of Miu Miu campaign girls past and present — namely Imogen Poots, Stacy Martin, Hailee Steinfeld, Mia Goth and Vacth — as well as Zhang Ziyi and Rinko Kikuchi. Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe popped in on the early side — before most of the other guests arrived, Prada gave the couple a personal tour. And it seems that was only part of the designers’ interaction this week: A source said the two designers met at CDG’s headquarters for an hour and half on Wednesday.

"Instinct? I like that word," said Miuccia Prada after her show. For indeed, like all great designers, she is led by her instincts, and these were animal ones on display today. "I wanted to put things together in a naive way, not caring, always wrong, with that attitude of instinct. It started with the mutation of ostrich in Prada, the genetic modification, the idea of a new species."

Actress Ellen Page:You need to wear a dress or people will think you’re gay

Ellen Page: “I used to feel this constant pressure to be more feminine,” she explains, adding: “You need to wear a dress or people will think you’re gay … Now I feel a sense of freedom in dressing.” (Vouge)

Page is far from the first gay woman to discover new-found sartorial freedom after coming out. Though I realised I was into girls at around four, it took until 14 to come out, and then 17 to tell my mum. I think she must have realised when I started cutting my hair (with a razor, in the shower) to make my hair like Shane’s from The L Word. “Don’t you want boys to like you?” she asked. And now I wonder, like Page, how many women – straight or not – would benefit from never having to consider what a man – real or imagined – thought of their clothes.

After coming out, excluding time spent at uni in the mid-noughties’ ubiquitous cut-off denim skirts, I’ve stuck to outfits a bloke could wear without being heckled – and which I call butch chic. To me, butch chic is printed shirts without frills and skirts without peplums or lace – or any of those things that look pretty, or pretty uncomfortable depending how you look at it. Functionality takes precedence, with elements taken from queer-friendly subcultures: punkishly torn vests, riot grrrl boots, hip-hop’s baggy T-shirts and grungey jumpers. What’s more, most gay women I know dress using elements of the above; it’s not only a uniform, but a Freemason’s handshake. It’s how we could tell the queer from the straight. So it’s no surprise that Ellen Page prefers a Saint Laurent suit to a pretty dress.

Tom Ford: ‘I’m an Equal Opportunity Objectifier’

‘I’m an Equal Opportunity Objectifier’ - “The fashion world’s King of Sex has been accused of using naked women to sell just about everything. Why not, says Tom Ford, and he’s all for male nudity, too.”

“I’ve been criticized for objectifying women,” Ford said, “I’m just as happy to objectify men. The thing is, you can’t show male nudity in our culture the way you can show female nudity.” He then added, “We’re very comfortable as a culture exploiting women, but not men.” His statement rings absolutely true, and it’s one of the things feminists have been trying to fight for decades. And while Ford did not come out and call himself a feminist, he does admit to always “thinking about feminism,” and cites inspiration from his mother, who was a “great feminist.”
Read more at The Guardian

Karl Lagerfeld's interview for Chanel fall-winter 2015/16 collection - Video

Karl Lagerfel

The inspiration and the guidelines of the fall-winter 2015/16 collection. Discover all the looks from the ready to wear fall-winter collection here.

Emilio Pucci Names Creative Director

Following the departure of Peter Dundas, Emilio Pucci has appointed Massimo Giorgetti as its new creative director. Giorgetti will split his time between his existing role as creative director for Milan-based label MSGM, and his new job at Pucci, based in Florence. The designer will show his first collection for the house in September. "Massimo Giorgetti embodies the entrepreneurial spirit and ingenuity of a new breed of fashion designers," a statement for Emilio Pucci said of the 37-year-old designer. "Hailed by the international press as one of Italy's most talented young designers, Giorgetti emerged on the fashion scene with a maverick aesthetic that gravitattes towards irreverent, joyful prints and bold colour."


more:
Roberto Cavalli Taps Peter Dundas
Peter Dundas has been appointed the new creative director of Roberto Cavalli. Formerly creative director of Pucci for seven years, the appointment marks his return to the Roberto Cavalli brand, where he worked between 2002 and 2005. Dundas’ first collection for the house will be presented in September.

Paul Smith Hires First Creative Director
In a move that will allow eponymous designer Paul Smith to spend more time on creative projects, Simon Homes has been appointed as the British brand’s first creative director. Homes has been with Paul Smith since 2004, previously working as head of men’s design.

Suno Names Chief Operating Officer
New York-based womenswear label Suno has appointed Maloni Goss as chief operating officer. Goss joins from Chanel, where she was director of wholesale strategy development, and previously held roles at Gap Inc. and Polo Ralph Lauren.

Givenchy Fall Winter 2015 Fashion Show

Riccardo Tisci - This fashion collection -Simultaneously aggressive and elegant, these paradoxical elements played with contrast and silhouettes. Soft, slick kiss curls were flattened against models’ bedazzled faces.

Encrusted gems were placed strategically up the ears and onto the face below the eyes, across cheeks, and dangling from septums in lavish curled shapes, splitting attention between the spectacle of the face and body.These were what helped give the fashion show some street cred, while the outfits themselves harkened back to silhouettes from the Victorian era. Rich black tail coats, peacock feather-printed silk dress gowns, turn-of-the-century wallpaper patterns worked into velvet tops and sculptural jet-beaded evening gowns all put the designer’s couture-level talents on fine display. But as Tisci has a well-documented love of gothic and things that go bump in the night, this collection had a darkness staining its soul. Vanessa Ives, the character played by Eva Green in the television series “Penny Dreadful,” would be well served by all of the ensembles in this show.
 more:

 more:style.com

The Best Set Designs of Fashion Month

Chanel
Waiters, booths, and a full functional breakfast bar were just some of the highlights of Chanel's Brasserie Gabrielle set.

Marc Jacobs
Jeremiah Goodman's watercolor of Diana Vreeland's living room inspired the set at Marc Jacobs' show,
serving as a reference for the image on the red walls and gray backdrop.

Kenzo's show kicked off with six holographic pillars that moved forward like a wall, and then rotated to form
a divider in the center of the runway.

Alexander McQueen
For the second time in her tenure as creative director of the house, Sarah Burton staged a show in the Conciergerie,
the prison that held Marie Antoinette before her beheading. A good—albeit spooky—backdrop to
Burton's collection influenced by Victoriana and mourning.

Louis Vuitton
Inside three reflective domes on the grounds of the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Bois de Boulogne,
Nicolas Ghesquière and co. rigged up a series of cameras that played the show
 live on screens throughout the venue.

Marc by Marc Jacobs
Marc by Marc Jacobs created a safe haven from the snow on the ground outside for its Fall show,
turning a New York pier into a manicured lawn.

Manuela Pavesi, Photographer and Stylist, Dies

Italian stylist and photographer, and longtime Prada collaborator Manuela Pavesi died Friday in her hometown of Mantova after a long illness. She was 65 years old. Pavesi contributed to shaping Vogue Italia, was a passionate collector of fashion and antique jewelry and was a long-standing friend and collaborator of Miuccia Prada. She also was an inspiration to young designers, helping, for example, to launch the career of Jonathan Anderson. Manuela Pavesi worked with photographers such as Albert Watson and Helmut Newton, collaborating with the latter on the 1986 images for the Pirelli Calendar that were eventually published in 2014 to mark its 50th anniversary. “She was very avant-garde, even with this Pirelli project. She anticipated fashion,” said Vogue Italia editor in chief Franca Sozzani. “She forged a new aesthetic and lived her life abiding to it. Like me, she was in love with Yves Saint Laurent, because he was the first to mix separate pieces. She would do that, too, mixing even contrasting looks. She didn’t follow fashion. She would go down her own road. As long as her aesthetic vision was satisfied, and not offended, she could do anything, from styling to photography. There wasn’t one particular thing she preferred to do.”

Louis Vuitton Women's Fall 2015 Fashion Show Highlights

Highlights from the Louis Vuitton Women's Fall 2015 Fashion Show from Artistic Director of Women's Collections Nicolas Ghesquière. Watch the full show and see more from the show on http://www.louisvuitton.com
The show started with a big statement coat, a fluffy white sheepskin worn by the designer’s go-to model Freja Beha Erichsen, and an even bigger statement bag. A Louis Vuitton box bag - a mini trunk if you will - with the model’s initials engraved on its front.

This was followed by four more voluminous fur coats and jackets and more box bags before finally the designer let the audience get a good look at what was going on underneath.

Their flattering ribbed knitwear separates, with sculptural undulating hemlines and lozenge-shaped openings across the chest of tops, looked smart and sexy. Even sexier were the fitted lingerie-inspired silk dresses and tops with dramatic black obtuse triangles highlighting the bosoms. And let’s not forget the animal-printed pieces covered in a bit of shimmering sequins.

Alexander McQueen Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2015 Paris

Alexander McQueen - This was a McQueen show that was very much in touch with its gentler side. It was as if Burton was finally starting to show a different aspect of herself and the house she now leads. It’s a facet worth exploring further in the future.

First there was the McQueen invitation, a photo of past-their-prime pink roses, shot by David Sims. Then there was the show’s music, the melodic song “English Rose” by The Jam. Designer Sarah Burton clearly had floral ideas on her mind when she came up with her collection this season. It was a starting point that bloomed into one of her most overtly feminine offerings since she took on the top job at the house.

Up until this collection, the McQueen shows have tended to be so theatrical that it was hard to imagine what, of all the wonders that appeared on the catwalk, would ever really make it into stores. Not so this time. Almost every look showed promise.

The micro knife-pleated dresses with the bustier tops, the long and lean leather jackets embossed with blooms and a series of frilly tiered lace gowns only needed the buttons running down the front of their bodices to be closed back up and they would be prim and proper – almost ladylike options. Which is not a term usually associated with the McQueen brand.

A few dresses constructed in whorls of fabric looked like rose petals, transformed the garments into ethereal flora. While other long gowns were festooned with expansive flower motif decorations that had an extreme sense of femininity about them.
Source:NF 

Manish Arora Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2015 Paris

Paris, Paris...winter is coming. Cue epic music followed up by Bowie's “Heroes” at Manish Arora, although straight off the bat you got the idea that his Khaleesi would be nobody's queen but her own. Should you forget that, your skull will be hanging from her arm, bejeweled and fleshless.Hand it to the Paris-based Indian designer. He's quite possibly the only one who could pull off a Game of Thrones-inspired collection that doesn't end up looking contrived. In his invocation of a faraway land full of strife and sorrow, Arora took the artistic license of adding a colorful overtone. Think of this as the chance encounter between Burning Man and Westeros. The thing you have to take on board is that every element on display is meaningful, and painstakingly crafted in his homeland of India.

Dissecting the embellishments would serve no purpose other than to cheapen the instinctive draw that these pieces have. For every sequined jacket, there is a cunningly cut trouser or floppy dress that carries the same DNA without the fluo trip. That use of negative space still feels fresh, a couple of seasons in.

Source:NF

Paris Fashion Week RTW Fall Winter 2015

Models wear creations during a presentation for Belgian fashion house AF Vandevorst's Fall-Winter 2015-2016 Ready To Wear Fashion collection

 

 

Rick Owens Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2015 Paris

Julien Dossena- His fall/winter 2015 show for Paco Rabanne was another considered, sporty chic lineup that put an accent on new volumes, impressive fabric developments and novel disk dress updates. The designer started his show with a group of trapeze-shaped baby doll dress coats in a combination of wool and rubberized leather that had a strong athletic allure. A pair of zippered hoodies emblazoned with images of monolithic concrete buildings and urban signage also underlined the contemporary nature of this collection. The knowledge that said hoodies are reversible and feature a stealthy all black alternative on the flip side is a great indicator that Dossena is just as interested in the bottom line as he is with telegraphing his modern artistic vision.