Christian Dior RTW Spring 2013- Simons opened with a series of smokings. Though they featured takes on the Bar and referenced his own couture collection in July, one might have read them as a tease thrown YSL’s way. The first three models out wore wide ribbons around their necks — an unfettered update on Dior’s use of chokers. Such were not the only archival references. Simons immersed himself in research and came away with a focus on pleats and on Dior’s Ligne A and Ligne H jackets. The latter turned up in a group of fabulous short coatdresses — he called them jacket-dresses — some waisted, others falling away from the body in that languid A-shape. Making them more than exercises in perfect tailoring: unexpected embroideries and flashes of iridescence in overlays or inset pleats.
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