“What is design anyway? What is the definition of design?” he waxed philosophic during a preview. “I think it’s how to translate or not translate, how to transform one dimension to three dimensions, to take a piece of flat fabric and give it a shape. You do it with darts, you do it with volume, you do it with drape. That, for me, is the work of design.” That, according to Elbaz, is the essence of design.
“The whole world has become like one exhibitionist place. Every woman I know wants to look like a star.” -Elbaz suggested.
He seemed determined to facilitate realization of that goal, which at times made for uncharacteristic gravitas - and a whole lot going on. Never a one-note guy, Elbaz prefers to populate his runway with that increasingly rare sighting within a single show: options. Here he funneled them through a Saint Laurent-cum-Eighties lens, coming up with arch tailoring; endless shoulder action; single sleeves and half-jackets; sudden bursts of glitz. Some of it looked great. A sleeveless jacket with a single white lapel over pants had a glamorous bravura; a pair of short skirts with jackets in black and white oozed chic. Other tailored pieces, however, were just too laborious.
Elbaz was more consistent with softer looks - a swimsuit series including some paired with skirts or pants - and with his dresses.
Source:WWD
