It’s no surprise then that, from head to toe, the models were adorned in a mesh of androgynous quirks: slicked back, shoulder-length hair, tall Cuban-heeled leather boots, and heavy eyeliner. All of which helped exaggerate the baggy wool sweaters, floor-length kilts, and fold-over pants that pepper the collection.
This is all in keeping with the sinister theme Plokhov first touted with his short-lived, mid-aughts–era menswear label, Cloak. But although he’s clearly moving away from the constructivist, military look that Cloak championed , the asymmetrical tailoring and almost entirely black palette will always be instantly recognizable.
